10. Trekking tips
Off the beaten track
Most of the best places to go hiking are in the mountainous north of the country, but there are also interesting places to trekking the Central highland s and it’s even possible down in the Mekong Delta. Trekking is also possible in some national parks such as Cuc Phuong and Cat Ba.
Many visitors to Vietnam wishing to stretch their legs flock to SaPa, a charming little town near the Chinese border. Sa Pa is still a good base for trekking in the region which is home to a rich array of ethnic minorities.
Above Sa Pa, often shrouded in cloud, towers the Phan Xi Pang, almost 3,200 metres above sea level and the highest point in all of what was once called Indochina. Climbing this is probably the ultimate sporty trekking option in Vietnam, but not necessary the most interesting because above the foothills it is just rather bleak jungle. A strenuous climb, it will take you from two to four days, depending on the weather conditions and on your physical condition. If you make it to the summit and are lucky that the cloud cover lifts for long enough, you may get a stunning view, allegedly stretching right down to the South China Sea.
DON’T plan to climb the Fansipan from May to August inclusive, unless you like leeches and landslides.
DO take warm, light clothing with you: this is the only place in Vietnam where it very occasionally snows.
DON’T go it alone: this is rough and wild terrain, with no inhabitants and no back-up. A British teenager died from a fall on the mountain not long ago.
DO take a guide with you, preferably from the Black Hmong ethnic minority. They are one of the local indigenous peoples here who know this terrain better than anybody.
Infact, a guide is often a good idea wherever you trek, if his language skills are up to it and he can also arrange for you to sleep overnight in villages. This is a great bonus and you get more trekking time the next day.
DO check carefully what’s on offer with an organized trek: too many guides will just take you on a gentle stroll to a nearby hamlet where 20 other foreigners a re already pestering people their cameras. It is so easy to get off the beaten track in Vietnam’s hill country that it would be a shame to miss out on this unique and magic experience.
If you prefer to trek unaided and are fit and well equipped, get advice from a hotel, tell them when you plan to get back and go for it! Rural folk in Vietnam are ussually gentle and incredibly hospitable.
DO pack good walking shoes if you plan to trek. DON’T count on buying something when you get there, especially if you have big, western feet. Something light but sturdy with a good tread is best, as you will often be hiking down wet, muddy tracks or crossing paddy fields and streams.
Sensitive areas
Some sensitive areas in Vietnam, like military installations, prisons or nuclear research plants are no different from restricted areas in any other country: if you try to enter or are found loitering, you will be stopped and questioned.
However, there are also areas that are sensitive because of political or ethnic dissent. The most notorious of thee\se are in the Central highlands, particularly near the borders with Cambodia and Laos. It is theoretical possible to go to many such places by requesting official permission. Yet, our advice is, DON’T bother: it will be a lot of hassle and they’ll probably say no. Just go: if you get stopped, it is not the end of the world. As a rule, you will find that the official line on things becomes progressive less strict, the further you get from the centers of power…