DOs & DON'Ts (While You are in Vietnam)

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Article Index
DOs & DON'Ts (While You are in Vietnam)
Transportation
Banks
Office services
Communications (telephone and post)
The Internet
Issues to mind during your trip
Travelers tips
Shopping tips
Tips for Eating and Sleeping
Trekking tips
Swimming tips
At a Friend's house
At Pagodas & Temples
Yes or No?
All Pages
1. Transportation

Planes, Trains & Buses
DO consider flying if you’re going a long way within Vietnam, because any other means of transport is always much slower and sometimes only slightly cheaper.
DON’T get stuck in the mud: in the rainy season, road and rail are frequently flooded or even washed away in the regions that are hardest hit.
DO reconfirm any flight to make sure there’s no change.
DON’T arrive at the airport just in time for a domestic flight. Until recently, it was actually more expensive for foreigners to travel from Hanoi to Hochiminh City by train than by air. And this is for a journey that still takes a couple of days as opposed to a flight lasting a mere couple of hours!
If what you are after is seeing plenty of scenery and having time to meet people and chat with them, DO let the train take the strain. Trains are still very slow, despite reports almost weekly that they are picking up extra speed. They are also a bit noisy and often rather Spartan, but a very pleasant and civilized means of transport, with much more legroom than any kind of bus, and conserve some of the charm of a bygone era. They offer – for a price – air conditioning, plush seats, comfy sleepers and gourmet food in a restaurant car.

DON’T opt for the bus if you’re prone to claustrophobia, motion sickness, are pregnant, suffer from a weak heart or actually expect to have a good time. The Vietnamese are not renowned for the safety or courtesy of their driving.
DO use local city buses: once you’ve worked out where to catch the ones you want, these present an excellent (and stunningly cheap) way of getting around. Cities in Vietnam are investing in new buses and improving the service in an effort to combat traffic congestion.
DO keep things on the planes, trains, and your hired vehicles clean. In case there’s something wrong you may find, call the master right away, or else you may get into trouble later.

Taxis, xe om, and cyclos
Taxis are fairly cheap and plentiful. DO check that the driver starts the meter, unless you agree to a price before you move off and then stick to it.
If you use taxis, xe om, or cyclos, it’s best to always make sure you have some small notes on you. The “sorry, no change” line is often used to try and round up the fare to fit your bank notes. If you only carry 50,000 VND bills, it might get expensive.
DO make sure the driver has really understood where you want to go rather than just answering “yes” to everything you say and then driving around aimlessly – with the meter running – with the hope that inspiration will strike from some unlikely quarter… If you can’t make yourself understood, show your destination to him in writing.
A xe om is a motorbike taxi, a very popular and practical way of getting around. You’ll find them on every street corner in the country – or rather they’ll find you and eagerly offer their services. This is the fastest way to get across town without having your own bike and is often the best and cheapest way to get to a distant beach, village, site, airport, etc. DO fix a price before you hop on, politely ignore any attempt to renegotiate the amount along the way and check that you are indeed where you want to be before you pay off your xe om. You DON’T need to bring along a helmet cause all xe om drivers carry one more (besides theirs) for customer.
Cyclos, or bicycle trishaws, offer a quiet, leisurely and eco-friendly way to cover short distance. Cyclo features three wheels. DO choose Cyclo to enjoy a city tour as it moves quite slowly.
DON’T take Cyclos late at night, unless you know your way around as this is not a very safe option.

Car, motorbike and bicycle rental
Cars for rent at comfort are Japanese 4x4s and Russian jeeps for long journeys and remote regions visiting. But they usually come with a driver. Yet, car is still not the ideal form of transport for Vietnam’s narrow roads and saturated city streets.
For short stays in Vietnam, your driving license from your own country should be sufficient, provided it applies to motorcycles. If possible, DO obtain an official Vietnamese translation of your license.
DO remember that this driving license will usually only be valid for the same period as your visa! After that, you start the process over again! But experience will make the process much quicker!
Renting bicycles and motorbikes is cheap and easy. And this service is now offered almost everywhere in Vietnam. However, DON’T take the risks involved lightly: the number of foreigners implicated in traffic accidents – from minor spills to major, horrific trauma – is proportionately high, and this is a country with a soaring accident rate.

DO take the time to rent a bicycle for a few days before you rent a motorbike. This will allow you to familiarize yourself with local conditions without quite as much speed, risk and hot metal being involved.
DO check the brakes, lights and wheel bearings on any vehicle before you rent it.
DO keep sharp eye on your rented motorbike to avoid theft.
In Vietnam, horns are heavily used: a motorbike sill runs with no lights or little brakes, but if the horn doesn’t work, the bike needs fixing. Some young sparks have the amusing idea of fixing a powerful car horn to a scooter. So DON’T let it get to you. If you start screaming at people for blowing their horns, they will simply stare at you in amazement.
DON’T forget to use the horn yourself when you drive, otherwise, it can be dangerous.
Helmets are now used by all motorbike riders as a rule. So DO remember to use one for yourself.
DON’T buy a Chinese helmet: it might look as good and be cheaper but it won’t resist a serious impact.

Walking

When walking around in the cities, beware of traffic: As crossing the road, follow the zebra crossing, and wait until the light turns blue. Still, remember to look around before crossing as motorbike riders sometimes run even at yellow light and at high speed.
 
Driving license

Technically, a foreigner needs a Vietnamese license to drive anything above 50cc; while this is rare if ever enforced, your papers won’t be in order if you have an accident, whether it’s your fault or not.

For short stays in Vietnam, your driving license from your own country should be sufficient, provided it applies to motorcycles. If possible, DO obtain an official Vietnamese translation of your license (unless it mentions that you are not entitled to drive). Official translations can be obtained at the public notary’s offices in most large towns. It normally only takes a couple of days and a few dollars.

An international driving license is only a recognized translation of your own country’s license.any official-looking, photo-bearing document can be an asset when negotiating your way out of a delicate situation with local policemen or authorities.
If you intend to stay in the country for longer periods and wish to do more serious driving, then you might want to apply for a local driving license. You will need quite a bit of patience for this and a hefty pile of papers and letters that will include photocopies of passport, visa, driving license and originals of your driving license official translation as well as a letter from your sponsoring agency (not needed if you are on a tourist visa).
DO remember that this driving license will usually only be valid for the same period as your visa. After that, you start the process over again.

Ten Tips to Survive Vietnam’s Traffic

DON’T spend hours waiting to cross the street on foot: that constant tide of traffic won’t stop until late at night, so
DO as the Vietnamese do: take the plunge and inch slowly across. Observe the Miracle of the Red Sea, as the traffic parts like magic, flowing smoothly in front of you or behind, meeting up again on the other side.
DON’T make any sudden or unpredictable movements: freeze if you have to, but never lunge forward or backward towards the safety of the sidewalk. In fact, you can do just about anything, but do it with conviction!
DON’T forget, if you’re riding or driving, to look where you’re going – all the time: if you hit anything in front of you, then it’s your fault.
DO give way to any vehicle bigger and noisier than yours. Trucks and buses are particularly dangerous: often old, sometimes unsafe and usually all over the road.
DO watch out for unfamiliar obstacles: water buffaloes, rocks of various sizes, broken-down trucks…, people sitting in the road, missing bridges, girls in ao dai cycling five abreast, slow-moving mountains of farm produce, dog fights, impromptu football matches, piles of building materials – and almost no light on anything at night..
DON’T hesitate to take evasive action – even if this sometimes means leaving the tarmac or coming to a dead stop.
DO try to avoid getting involved in one of the all-too-frequent minor accidents that plague Vietnam’s roads (and the major ones as well, of course), but if you are unlucky,
DON’T lose your cool, in spite of the interference of the large and vocal crowd that may gather: try to settle things amicably and swiftly. Sometimes, paying a reasonable amount of money will save you a lot of hassle.
DO remember that the only rule is: you’re not allowed to bump into anybody… irrespective of what they did or should have done, or of what the road signs or traffic lights were telling them to do. Some people still seem to think that anything red means forward, comrade!


 

2. Banks

The first thing to know about money in Vietnam is that nothing beats a greenback: the US dollar, as in many developing countries, now reigns supreme. Such is the irony of history.

DON’T let anyone force you to pay in dollars, however: the law states that you always have the right to pay in dong (Vietnamese currency). You generally get a better deal if you don’t pay in dollars, especially for smaller purchases.

DO take your passport with you! This applies to all dealings with officialdom. You won’t get very far without it.

DON’T count on cashing travelers’’ cheques anywhere outside the larger banks of Hochiminh City and Hanoi.

DO avoid unnecessary hassle (and we mean hassle) by having the travelers’ cheque made out in US dollars when you buy them.

The good news is that cash points (ATMs) dispensing Vietnamese dong, until recently a rare breed, can now be found in smaller towns. Credit cards are also taking off, with more and more businesses, hotels and restaurants accepting them. However, some will force you to pay the card surcharge yourself: an illegal practice, but there you go.

If you’ve brought USD with you, DON’T change them on the street: even if you know the local currency well and are on the alert for any scam, you may still get conned and you won’t get a good rate.

DO change them at jeweler’s shop around and you will get a better rate than at the state bank

DON’T travel to the remoter regions without cash (plenty of dong, plus may be some smaller bills to ease the strain on your wallet).


3. Office services

Vietnam enjoys the unique heritage of a most dubious procedural blend, namely Chinese mandarin, colonial French and Soviet-style communist bureaucracies.
DO keep calm: be assertive but polite and keep smiling. Things take time, offices close early and often and you will only be told something if you ask the right question, so ask lots of them until you know clearly.
DO photocopy every official paper that comes into your possession and carry them all times along with plenty of passport photos.
Most offices open at 08:00 in the morning and close officially or unofficially from 12:00 (sometimes 11:30) to 13:00 and stay open until 17:00. Countryside hours tend to be shorter. It’s advisable to do serious bureaucratic work in the morning.


4. Communications (telephone and post)

The landline telephone system is remarkably efficient: direct dialing, domestic and international, a same-day free repair service, card-operated pay phones in most towns. The catch is that it is not cheap: long distance calls within Vietnam are relatively expensive and rates for international calls are extremely high.

Mobile phones are cheap and plentiful with two local systems providing good coverage. If you decide to buy one, DON’T leave it lying around: the market in stolen mobile is thriving.

The postal system is also good in Vietnam. Here. Links with outside world are heavily taxed, making international postage charges disproportionately high. Within Vietnam, however, the post is not only fairly swift and reliable bit also wonderfully cheap.

DON’T seal a parcel before you take it to a post office. You will be required to show its contents before you can have it weighed and priced. You must also open any parcel you receive from abroad.

DO tell people sending you stuff to Vietnam that they needn’t be too exact for the box marked “declared value” when they fill out that little green customs sticker. Better still, they should add one or more of the following: no commercial value, for personal use, used items …This should save you some money to start with, but DON’T just pay up the fee seems unfair. If the contents of your package are unlikely to be of interest to the post office workers, you can always threaten to leave it there…

DON’T post a letter or parcel with real postage stamps on it until you’ve had them cancelled again, your post will not get very far.

DON’T send big parcels abroad if you can avoid it. If you travel to Thailand or a nearby country and can carry the contents that far, it will be cheaper to send it from there.


5. The Internet

This service is very efficient and widespread. It is relatively expensive to have your own connection but prices have been falling and speed and reliability rising. Internet café are also quite cheap and almost every where.

In rural areas, try the main post office. In theory, the Vietnamese government retains control of virtual traffic across its territory with a system of firewalls and surveillance of emails containing keywords…

The 1080 number is equivalent of an interactive yellow pages service, particularly useful information on telephone numbers, addresses, government offices…From family planning questions to material problems, meteorology to tourist information, historical or scientific queries, the 1080 crew are able to deal with all reasonable question. The fee for this comprehensive service is a modest 250 dong (VND) per minute.


6. Issues to mind during your trip

Beware of strong (or even not so strong) sun,
especially if you are not used to it – you can burn or get heat stroke before you know it. Carry a hat and sunscreen in your daypack and remember to reapply the lotion after you have been swimming.  Also drink plenty of fluids to avoid dehydration in hot climates.

Beware of thieves
As any country in this world, tourists should beware of thieves. In Vietnam, bus, crowded streets, festivals, exhibitions, etc. are normally ideal places for thieves to “do business”. Thus, be very careful with your precious stuff.

45 minutes to enter Vietnam
It might take 45 minutes to clear customs to enter Vietnam. You have to give the Vietnamese authorities full points for thoroughness. Each counter is manned by 2 officers. The procedure is very tough and requires time for careful double check. So brace yourself for a long wait, just in case.

Do not drink too much fruit wine
One of the few pitfalls of TM Brother's boat tour in Nha Trang was drinking a wee bit too much of the free homemade fruit wine. The fruit wine at small vendor shops are not of good quality, so don’t drink it too much.

Quang Ngai police
If you are in Quang Ngai, you may be caught by the local police for a perhaps long while. Here are a couple of advice in case you are arrested by them:
1/ If you know a bit of Vietnamese, forget it all, if you have a language book, don't show it.
2/ Always have some cigarettes with you to offer to relax the atmosphere.
3/ Smile even if you are frightened.

Mosquito bites
are the cause of most tropical diseases, so dress to avoid getting bitten – wear long pants and long sleeves, especially at dusk.  Use mosquito repellent on any exposed skin, and sleep under a mosquito net if one is provided (or travel with your own if you are camping or staying in remote areas).

Immunizations and Malaria Medications
Before heading to South East Asia be sure to check with the Center for Disease Control or your local health department on recommended immunizations and Malaria Medications. Do this at least a month before you are scheduled to leave.
For the average traveler to Vietnam the current recommendations by the CDC are immunizations for Hepatitis A and B, Typhoid and Tetanus. If your traveling for over a month or working with animals or small children there are additional recommendations. The CDC link for SE Asia is http://www.cdc.gov/travel/seasia.htm.
The Malaria medication they are currently recommending for SE Asia is Mefloquine.
Make sure you bring any prescription medication you need as well as insect repellent.

Don't Drink the tap Water or Eat the Ice
The tap water is NOT safe to drink, except for those at the airport, big hotels & restaurants. Drink sterilized one or buy bottled water (making sure the seal on the bottle is intact). Be sure to use bottled water for even everything, including brushing your teeth. Don’t assume Fruit Juices are made with bottled water – ASK before sipping to avoid Montezuma’s revenge.

Food
Beware of dishes that include uncooked produce (salads, fresh fruit and vegetables).  Fruits that can be peeled (bananas, mangoes, etc) are generally safe to eat. Beware of frozen foods that may have been thawed and refrozen, and of undercooked meat, fish or poultry. When eating at food stalls, use your best judgment: if the food or preparation area looks dodgy, don't even consider eating it. If you are unfortunate enough to get diarrhea, the basic rule is stop eating and drink plenty of (bottled) water for a few days until it has passed.

Peel it, or Boil it
The Vietnamese still use human waste to fertilize their crops so the general rule when your in Vietnam is Peel it, or Boil it.
Sanitation in Vietnam has come a long way from a few years ago, but still, you should be as careful as possible.

No glove, no love
If romance happens along the way, practice safe sex. HIV/AIDS are quite widespread here. That means using a condom – and it's best to bring one from home, or else you can buy at the locality, so it's safe for you.

Xe om / Honda om - motorbike taxi's, Saigon
It’s better to catch a metered taxi when late at night, particularly in Saigon, as the Xe om/ Honda om (motorbike taxi) here at night features some issues. Normally, the drivers may take you around and around, until late and stop where you require. And, they would charge you extra for riding around to find a (maybe) nearby place!

Rush Motorcyclists
One of the most familiar sights in Vietnam is a road packed with noisy little motorbikes, often carrying whole families. They seem impervious to danger. Motorbikes, with tiny babies wedged between mother and father, weave between cars and buses and ride head on into traffic on the wrong side of the road.
Be warned, it is quite commonplace for motorbikes to turn into the wrong lane, which if you are attempting to walk across the road at the same time, can really catch you by surprise.

Weather changing from North to South…

SAPA
A cool retreat from Hanoi’s torrid summer temperatures and the closest you can get to seeing a few fleeting flakes of snow in winter.
DON’T forget your sweater, even summer nights can get cool up there. January and February are the coldest months with a sight chance of seeing snow. The best time to visit is from March to May, or September to mid-December, although autumn is much rainier.

HANOI
Hanoi has 4 distinct seasons with a hot and humid summer where temperatures can reach 40oC and a surprisingly cold and humid winter that can chill the bones of even snow-loving Northerners. Granted, the temperature rarely drops below 8oC or 10oC but with a constant drizzle, a sauna-high hiumidity index and grey skies, it turns unheated cement houses into freezer-like boxes, and gets most resident expatriates writing home for their favourite long-johns, wolly hats and duffel coats. Mid-January to mid-March can be quite depressing with a near total absence of sunshine and a fine drizzle called rain dust by Vietnamese. The most pleasant seasons are spring (March-April) and autumn (October-December). July and August boast about 340mm of rain per month compared to a low of 22-35mm for December to February.

HALONG BAY
No doubt you may want to go and discover this extraordinary UNESCO World Heritage site. The best times to visit the bay are Spring and Autumn. During the summer months, occasional devastating typhoons sweep across the northern coastline.

VINH
Granted, this city is not a favourite of most travel guide writers, but weather-wise, it does have one important asset: its beaches boast the best wind conditions of the country. Who knows, in a few years it might become a windsurfer’s and kite-surfer’s paradise.

HUE
Hue must have meant rain in some ancient dialect… your memories of the Imperial City will probably include a few heavy showers or never-ending drizzle. At the first signs of rainfall, an umbrella is probably a wise investment.
DON’T wait for the rains to stop before you go out and explore the city’s beauties unless you plan to settle there permanently. More scientifically, annual rainfall averages 2,890 mm, compared to about 2,000 mm for most of the country.

DA NANG
Even if only a short distance from Hue, Da Nang seems to be spared some of the heavy rainfall of is sister city. An umbrella is nevertheless a most useful article… for rain or sunshine.

DA LAT
Developed by the French as an escape from Hochiminh City’s heat, Da Lat is always surprisingly and pleasantly cool in summer, especially after sunset. Temperatures never exceed 20oC, hence its other name: the city of eternal spring.
DON’T forget a sweater, even in summer. Nights can be quite cool, especially on a motorbike. As for winter, temperatures can drop to 10oC.

NHA TRANG
This is beach-bum country where parasols and deckchairs sprout from the white sand under feathery coconut trees nodding in a fresh ocean breeze.

HOCHIMINH CITY
The biggest city in Vietnam is under a typical dry/monsoon temperature regime, with a rainy season from May to November and a dry season from December to April. Temperatures barely fluctuate between an average of 32oC during the winter months. Don’t be misled by the term dry season. The average humidity is 80 percent. As for the rainy season, it is characterized by daily short but heavy downpours. Monthly averages are above 300mm of rain from June to September with January to March being the driest months with about 3 to 15mm.

CAN THO
The sun shines all year round in the Mekong River Delta and there are no winters. However, the region is flood-prone, especially between August and October when the mighty Mekong bursts its banks to inundate the fertile delta.

Matters from North to South…

Hanoi’s Travel Issues

Architecture: Old Quarter
All the area around Hoam Kiem Lake is kown as "Old Quarter" and is a charming noisy narrow alley in which you can easily get lost....
In fact, the best way to know the place is to get lost in it!! When you are completely lost, you just hail a motorbike and tell him to take you to your hotel or so. You will find many old shops, souvenirs, restaurants... here.

The red bridge
This small bridge in the middle of the Hoan Kiem Lake joins the banks of the lake to the central island where you can find the Ngoc Son Temple.
It has a certain "japanese" flavour, and gives some excellent photograph opportunities, with that brigh red colour reflecting over the quiet waters of the lake...

Water Puppets
This unique puppet show was first showed in North Vietnam, and the best place to see it is at the Municipal Theatre here in Hanoi.
It is performed at a small pool inside the theatre, from behind a curtain. From there, with long bamboo sticks that go under the water (not visible) they move the puppets from below, making them look as if they were floating on the water.
Everything is in Vietnamese, but as the stories (rural scenes) are so simple and graphical, it is easy to understand it and is a gorgeous & colorful show. There are peasants, brides, fishes, dragons (that spit fireworks!), cats, tortoises...
At the background, there is a local music group that plays traditional music. The show takes about 1 hour.

Snack around
The best thing about Hanoi is snacking around. The food is great, there're lots of things to try and it's cheap. Have fun! All good travelers know there is something of an order effect with regard to how one perceives a particular country. After visiting some countries around, you would find in this country some unique features when coming here.

CNN Coverage & KFC
You may have read that one cannot get any international news on the local televisions, but it’s so wrong. Even a little minibudget hotel actually has CNN coverage! Though McDonalds have not arrived in Hanoi, KFC shops are available almost everywhere here.

Arround the City: Wake up and Smell the Coffee/Cafe Culture
On the streets, whether day or night, you may find pockets of people sitting around enjoying their cup of freshly brewed Vietnamese coffee. Even when it passes midnight, on a deserted street within the Old Quarter, you can still see young people seated on low stools sipping coffee, smoking and chatting quietly.
How tourists love Vietnamese Coffee is the Arabica Beans which are grown in the highlands are hand - roasted with butter and afterwards a touch of vanilla is thrown in. The coffee is strong and robust with a slight bitter aftertaste that lingers on your tongue. Quite delicious when drunk with a spoonful of thick, creamy, sweet condensed milk. You will miss it!

Hanoi Traffic
In Hanoi, the motorbikes overwhelm you with their sheer numbers. They are the kings of the road and it is the cars that need to “tread” cautiously among them. For the young men taking their girls out, the bikes were obviously ideal for hugging in public.
Crossing a busy road, cutting through a seemingly endless stream of bikes is hair-raising as the bikes weave around you at speed.
At this T- junction, you may have to stand for a while, when you can watch seasoned Hanoi bikers & cyclists cut across oncoming traffic of other bikes and bicycles with serene ease.

Keep walking
One thing you will notice the very first day in Hanoi is people do not pay any attention to pedestrians. So, you have to follow some very simple rules if you even hope to cross a street. First, be aggressive. There is always someone on a motorcycle in front of you and you just have to get out in the street and stake your claim. Second, do not stop. This only confuses the drivers. They are quite adept at weaving around pedestrians if you keep walking at an even pace. I rarely saw any accidents so don’t sweat it too much.

Traffic Side-step!
One of the biggest dangers around Hanoi comes in the form of two wheels. It doesn't matter whether they are bicycles, scooters or mopeds, there's thousands of them! The roads in Hanoi can be anything from wide to narrow but they always seem to manage to get a least 2 lanes of traffic on each side.

There are very, very few traffic lights or pedestrian crossings so to get anywhere you simply have to grin, bear it and walk like a local - I'm walking here, this is my road and I own it.
Step out with logic and confidence (not directly in front of a moving vehicle) and simply walk! Two-wheeled vehicles will work their way around you or simply slow up so long as you walk with confidence!

Food & Fruits!
Food and fruits here are delicious, yet also risky. So, remember not to eat and drink on the streets or at small eating shops. Eating chicken or ducks may be risky. Be sure to peel them and remove any parts that may be bad for your health. Drinking may be risky, too: Often the ice cubes used are made of water that has not been boiled. A different kind of "danger" is the fact that when eating in non-touristy restaurants you won't find an English menu. In case you don't like dog meat, for instance, avoid Thit Cho. Vietnamese people eat many animals that are not common in the Western cuisine, so be prepared! Thus, in all, choose a good restaurant recommended by your travel agency or hotels!

Hochiminh City Tips

Local Life: Local fruits
You will find many strange local fruits here: lychee, papaya, jackfruit? But the weirdest of them all was the DURIAN, a very large fruit, the size of a football ball, all covered with sharp spikes. It is said to be the tastiest of all but it doesn’t smell good at all!! It is said it would be impossible to remain in a bus all after one of these durians has been opened inside.

Useful tips: Bring US Dollars
Most of the vendors we ran across really like you to pay in US dollars. It appears that US dollars are in fact, the underground currency around Vietnam. Be careful about exchanging too much cash for Vietnamese Dong.
Now, that doesn't mean it isn't fun to get some. How often do you get to hold 20,000 of any kind of money! But, make your exchanges in small amounts.

Thieves & Beggers
This is not really a big problem especially if you keep your backpack locked but be careful of these innocent cuties, especially, if you're a Caucasian. Vietnamese children will usually target you and badger you to buy postcards, hats, little grasshoppers made from grass, etc. It's very difficult to refuse them. But giving money to one will encourage the rest to swarm to you like bees to honey. Also, do take note that while you are paying attention to one cute child, another could be helping himself to your wallet when you're not watching!

Traffic: Gridlock Traffic Conditions
They say a picture speaks a thousand words so here it is. Now, imagine that you are trying to cross this road. It’d be best for you to walk slowly and carefully and let the vehicles avoid yourself.

Ice and water
Though you might have heard some say it’d be better not to have ice here, yet, don't worry! Except for a few dodgy street vendors, everywhere does sell clean ice. The drinking ice is transported a lot more safely.
Tap water on the other hand is very much to be avoided, accepted for brushing teeth, but if there is a heavy down pour avoid this as well (especially in Hanoi or smaller cities). The fresh water and sewer systems have a tendency to mix if it floods.

Hue Tips

The rain in Vietnam falls mainly in Hue
Hue is one of the wettest cities in Vietnam, with annual rainfall of around 3,000mm. The wettest months are September and October, when there can be flooding. The best time to go, if you want to stay dry, is from February to April.

Have a pair of shoes for a good grip!
If you plan to visit Hue between Dec and Mar, do expect that the grounds to be wet as this is also the monsoon season. Not to worry too much, you won't be totally drenched as the rain is light.
However, do note that the ground would be wet. Hue is unlike the major cities like Singapore or Bangkok, the grounds are generally made of soil where it would turn muddy after a downpour. You need to be cautious if you are cruising along the Perfume Pagoda as you need to do a bit of "jumping" at the moorings.
In addition, the grounds at the royal tombs are covered with moss too. So, it may be slippery for walking. Hence, it does help if you have a pair of walking shoes with good grip. One thing to note, the weather is cool - which makes the visit pleasant!

Boat sightseeing with a local
If you intend to go for a boat sightseeing, be cautious when hiring a local to be your tour guide. Some like to take advantage of strange guests to earn as much as possible. So, if possible, don’t use this kind of service!

Hoi An Tips

Foreign Exchange in Hoi An
For currency usage, it is advisable to bring US currency to Hoi An. US currency is widely accepted at all places in Hoi An. Yet it would be a good idea to change some of the currency to Vietnamese dong (VND). Do remember that the local authority is also encouraging the locals to use VND. With VND, there is also more room for bargain!
In Hoi An, it is easy to find banks everywhere. Rates are much better in banks as compared to hotels. In Hoi An, other currencies are accepted at banks - GBR, THB, SGD, AUD, etc. Do not try to change too much VND at one go - remember that you cannot use VND elsewhere!

4-sight tour ticket
The standard way of seeing Hoi An's sights involves buying a 4-sight tour ticket (around US$5). This ticket allows you to enter four places, picking one place from each of: 3 museums, 3 assembly halls, 4 traditional houses and the Japanese Bridge.
The Japanese Bridge is a public road and no ticket is necessary, but it's on the list anyway. It is possible to see a traditional house without the ticket by paying about 10,000VND to the house owner, though some will charge more. To enter more than one place from each group, show the used ticket and pay an extra 10,000VND.

Easy Walking - Get a Map
The old town of Hoi An is relatively easy to walk. Also, map of Hoi An is easily available in all hotels. Do get a copy and start your walking adventure in Hoi An!
Do note that a number of roads within the Old Town are closed to motorcars. This makes walking easy for many people.

Excuse me! This is Hoi An
For those who have visited Melaka (Malaysia), you may be mistaken that houses at Hoi An to be of Melaka. In fact, the only similarities are they are old & gone through the war torn period. If you're into architecture, some of the older structures will sure make you are spending hours observing structural details of these building. Remember, this is a UNESCO Heritage site, there must have been some reason why they are put in the list.

Be VERY careful in the Markets
The Market Place is always crowded and colorful. Though it’s not quite a safe place with several thieves (like in many other markets in this world), it has a lot interesting things to see and buy. So, the only thing to notice is that on deciding to visit the market, go with some local or a professional guide.

Tout Infestation
Hoi An is, for good reason, a tourist magnet. Since Vietnam has a landmass roughly equal to New Zealand, but with 16 times the population, locals tend to converge on tourism hotspots.
There's only 75,000 inhabitants of Hoi An, but the volume of tourists has created a high tout density in town. Since there is so much competition among the motorbike drivers, silk shop advertisers, market vendors, lighter hawkers, sunglass sellers, tour leaders, restaurant promoters, marijuana dealers, prostitute peddlers, and any other kind of enterprising local, the touts tend to be more aggressive than in other parts of Vietnam. At times, walking around Hoi An feels like using a computer that's been infected with pop-up ads.

Da Nang Tips

Tropical fruit
Like everywhere in Vietnam (even in the airport), you can find a lot of people selling tropical fruits. The most interesting one is the big orange. Others are just normal food as durian, lychee, manggis, rambutan, etc. All are fresh and extremely delicious!
Not too touristy
da nang is not as too touristy as hoi an.
the city is by the sea and you hardly find any souvenir there. but da nang is bigger than hoi an. you can find supermarket, international airport and university.
and unlike hoi an, most of the building is new.
from furama resort there's a shuttle bus going to da nang everyday and it's free.

3% commission!
If you would like to change your money at Danang International Airport, remember that there is a 3% commission surcharge!

Nha Trang Tips

You don't have to move a muscle
It's like staying at a 5-star resort and being waited on hand and foot.
You would spend the whole day on the beach and find that there’s no need to leave. You can buy anything on the beach from fresh fruit for breakfast to freshly prepared crayfish and prawns for lunch, cold drinks, cigarettes, T-shirts, postcards and even English novels.

Nice people
Receiving a gift from someone who can at least afford it means so much. But you may experience this in here if you do something good to a poor person. People here are very nice and possessing very kind and polite gestures.

I want a house boat, don't you?
There are many house boats along the shores of Nha Trang. Many fishermen make their homes here. They take out smaller round boats to make their catch, then return back to these humble abodes.

Lunch
Crayfish from the vendors on the beach is worth trying for your lunch. Some tourists who might have got sick of seafood, but surprisingly do not when having this here. It’s delicious, and served with a very strange but very nice sauce to dip the meat in.

Booze Cruise
An alternative to scuba diving is a cruise around some of Nha Trang's nearby islands. Boats depart in the morning for full day on the ocean. Fare includes lunch, some cheap wine, and snorkeling equipment. You can sign up for a cruise at almost any hotel in Nha Trang. The fare is only around $10.

Lying on the Beach
If you're going to be travelling from North to South, or vice-versa, Nha Trang is a nice place to stop and relax. The beaches are empty during the day. Some locals may think dark complexions are unattractive, so they generally hide from the sun. You can avoid this though, by going to the Rainbow Bar. They offer free beach chairs in an area barred from sellers so you can rest in peace.

Scuba Diving
Whether you're a beginner or an expert, there are plenty of dive companies in Nha Trang to serve you. If you're an experienced diver, Nha Trang might be a bit boring as there isn't a whole lot of coral. Fishermen have destroyed a lot of it with dynamite fishing. However, you may still want to go for it to put another notch in your belt. Nha Trang is a great place to learn how to dive. It's much better than learning in a pool, but not so great that you feel like your missing out on something when you're busy doing drills. Most dive centers offer all levels of PADI certification.

Hot Sands & Bikinis
Sand particles in Nha Trang beach are quite big & they can be quite hot especially around 11:30-14:00. Remember to bring along water sport foot wear (like Nike ACG).

Books for sale
Somewhere people may disturb your lunch or supper trying to sell souvenirs, lottery tickets or plain and simple beg. The Nha Trang variant is selling books. The locals will go buy a range of books at the local bookstore, then selling them through to the tourists. In case you like reading, this will be a wonderful way to buy books. But don't panic: there will be a variation, because you'll also be able to buy candy, cigarettes and so on.

Mosquitos
Beware of mosquitos here, particularly at Sailing club. Even you are covered, you still probably be bit. So be prepared with anti-mosquito gel or the like before using this entertainment kind.

Beach antics
Be careful on the beach at night. Not that you are in much physical danger but as one party going Norwegian found out, if you pass out drunk on the beach, you are likely to wake up sans cash and wallet!

Train station taxis
As with any other city, don't take any taxis right at the train station. They will overcharge you as compared to the normal rate. Just walk down a few blocks and catch a taxi on the street. Don't negotiate any price, just point to the meter and tell them to turn it on.

Hot sun
Being at the sea of Nha Trang, you will feel relatively cool compared to other towns and cities in Vietnam. Make sure you put on lots of sunblock!

Beware of thieves!
Normal thieves, or stealing from prostitution, etc. sometimes appear in this city. So, if you are travelling alone, just be more careful!

Double check local mineral water
Don’t buy a bottle of mineral water from a street vendor, as you may receive some counterfeit. So be check what you have bought before you leave.

Da Lat Tips

Postcard
At this time, postcard shops are not yet available here. So if you like to buy and send postcards of Dalat to your friends, remember to bring some from Hochiminh City to Dalat.

Dress Warmly
Most people here dress warmly though out the day, especially at night. Some parents will put some kind of head gear for their kids when they go out to night market. Room temperature is always 10-degree while air conditioning controls shows 16-degree. So remember to dress warmly!

Local coffee – a surprise!
The service of local coffee is unique and come with small serving. First-timers will find it strange that the waiter/ waitress is serving you an empty glass. Yet soon you will find out that coffee level will slowly rise to almost half coffee glass.
It normally takes about 2 minutes to get your perfect cup of local brewed coffee. Please add water if you find the coffee a bit too strong.
The stainless steel container serves together, your empty coffee cup acts as filter and somewhat similar to Kopi-Tiam cloths filter.

Spice up your life!
Vietnamese food is not actually hot, but the regular chili sauce is twice as hot as those that you can find in Malaysia. In Da Lat, people consume more chilies than those in Hanoi & Saigon, particularly when you eat noodles.

Pine Forest
Due to the high altitude and cooler climate, pine forest can be considered as native and most prominent plants at this highlands setting.
The sound of the wind cutting through those pine needles can be quite soothing at times. But it may sound scary at night.

Beef Noodles
The beef rice noodles are common food source for locals, especially for breakfast.
It is quite delicious after adding the chilies and fish sauce. Vegetable, lime, mints and bean sprouts are served generously although the noodles itself is inexpensive.

It's Cold in the Clouds
As a hill town, Da Lat has plenty of sights for the family. Easy access from Saigon and a choice of hotels for Backpackers or Family. A large market and a lake. There's even a copy of the Eiffel Tower.
There are plenty of eating places and sights to see outside the town and I would suggest strongly trying the 'restaurant' on top of the market for the local food.
The French Architecture is outstanding and if you want to look at a cloud first-hand, take an oxygen mask and head for the top of the hill. Photos to come...


7. Travelers tips

The well-behaved traveler

Dealing with officials

Visa renewal, traffic accidents or simply getting stopped on the road by a policeman eager to get a closer look at a foreigner…sooner or later, you are bound to have to deal with these problems. Courtesy, patience and politeness are the keys words here.

Remember, when things get rough, be humorous if you can but always respectful. You may be able to talk your way out of your mishap, but you DON’T have the skills or talent, a small fine will most likely get out of your trouble.

DO be reasonable whenever you pay for any thing … from a cyclo ride to a traffic fine. Don’t be a cause of inflation!

When dealing with official, DON’T let them forget you. Be persistent. By always reminding them politely of your presence, they will happy to help you.

Do go early for any administrative matters. Most of things get done in the morning and afternoon is perfect timing for the “you come back tomorrow” line.

DO be prepared to come back a few times, however. Some transactions involve many different officials and the merry-go-round can take e few turns before it finally stops for you.

DO understand that the bureaucracy is not aim at your specifically. All Vietnamese also have to go through these hoops.

Environment

DO be aware of your impact on your environment and try to minimize it. Accept leave all sites at least as nice and pristine as you found them.
Do contribute to a more sustainable tourism in Vietnam.

DON’T raise your exception above reality. Electricity, plastic, TV and modern clothing have the same appear to all peoples. Cultures are more than costume, dances, and handicrafts. By looking people beyond appearances, you will discover authenticity and tradition.

DO encourage eco-tourism, as it does provide major economic driving force behind the conservation of natural recourse.

DO help to conserve Vietnam’s biodiversity.
DON’T consume wild meat or buy traditional medicinal products unless you are certain they are deprived from sustainable management practices. As many of these products come from endangered species, it is better to politely refuse. On the other hand, encouraging environment –friendly products does contribute to the conservation of wild animals.

DON’T buy souvenirs made from endangered species and plant (ivory, tortoise, wild animal skin…). Similarly, buying coral and ornament fish helps maintain destructive harvesting practices.

DON’T drop litter. There are very few rubbish bins in the country; you have to carry it with you for a while.
If no toilet is available, be sure that you bury your waste and all the hygienic items far from waterways.
Never use soap and shampoo in rivers and lakes.

DO conserve energy whenever possible. Turn off air conditioners and fans when you leave the room.

Culture

DON’T give money to begging children. It is far better to pay for shoeshine, postcard or book…even if you do pay a few dongs more than the rock bottom price.

DON’T give sweets or chocolate. It will just make children’s lives more miserable by adding dental problems to their health. Choose such kind of gifts like pens, books, school bags or even clothing…

DO follow the locals. Who do they give money to? Most likely to the old and handicapped. If you want to hand out your cash, follow their examples.

Economics
Do encourage local products. Eat and drink local food, use local transport and local shops. Help turn tourism to the benefit of communities.

Eco- tour suggestion
DON’T follow the crowd, get off the beaten track. Here are few ideas:

  • Visit Ba Be National park, its lakes, waterfalls and rain forest ( This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it )
  • Get mountain biking in Dalat( This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it )
  • See kayak to uninhabited island off Nha Trang, contact local tour operator.
  • Take an elephant trek in the Central Highlands
  • Be a fisherman for a day at Phan Thiet eco-tourist site.
  • Discover the mangrove swamps of Vietnam’s southern province: Ca Mau.

Tips for men

Sex, songs and massage
Sorry ladies, Vietnam is no doubt a man’s paradise, even if only for the eyes. You are likely to see more charming smiles, graceful bodies and seducing eyes per square kilometer than in any other place on Earth.
Although proposition is rampant, in Vietnam even the dancing girls and the taxi girls have retained an air of youthful naiveté and sincerity that adds to their already devastating charm.
But caution is always the best approach in uncharted territory. There is make up and then, there is life.
Karaoke and massage parlors are often the front door to come sleazy and personal service. The one thing to remember is that, except in the true –blue back alley clandestine bordellos, you can still go for a sing along or a regular Vietnamese massage in any establishment that advertises these services. Extra are extra and never compulsory.

DO remember that prostitution is still regard as a social evil, on top of being illegal. However, it is quite unlikely that you would get into any real trouble with authorities but you could be caught in an occasional police crackdown.
DON’T make serous promise you can not keep. Most Vietnamese ladies will be quite direct about their intentions, short and long term and in turn, will try and hold you to your word.
DON’T carry too much cash when visiting bars and nightclubs. When overstuffed wallets are fleshed in public, you never know who is watching. It could spell trouble a few hours down the road.
DON’T engage in unprotected sex. AIDS is spreading through Vietnam as fast as the country is opening up. There are a number of other diseases that you might have explain to a spouse or a partner when you get back home…Gonorrhea, syphilis, trichomoniasis… if the disease does not kill you, some one else might.
DON’T get drunk alone in public areas. Vietnam is a safe country, but do you really want to take the risk and become one of the rare crime victims?
DO report all crimes to the police. You will help improve the situation by not keeping silent.
DON’T ever abuse children. Be careful not to act in any way that could be seen as encouraging it.

Taxi girls and dancing girls
For someone in a hurry who does not know where to go, it is best to stick to the dancing girls, taxi girls and foreign-husband hunters mix with the normal crowds of fun seekers.
DON’T believe all what you are told. Girls who hang out at discotheque are simply not your traditional family-oriented career-dreaming types.
DO negotiate the price first before paying for the service. Be ware of “Oh, just anything you want to give me” price tag. It’s bound to get more difficult than that when comes to the time to hand out the cash.
DON’T have sex if you can manage it. Although prostitution can never be eliminated, it can be minimized. Very few girls choose prostitution as a fulfilling career!

But what about true love?
Well, it happens, sometimes. You are not the first foreigner to fall in love with a Vietnamese girl. If you are ready for long tem commitment, it is fairly to get married locally, as long as you have few weeks to spare and ways retrieve all your important papers from your home country (it will take 5 to 6 weeks)
DO remember that Vietnam has laws and regulations about marriage and that no matter how much of hurry you are in or how much you love each other; you will have to abide by these rules.

Family wedding and civil wedding
The Vietnamese regard the civil marriage as an “authorization from government to get married”. So strong is their belief in the family wedding as opposed to the civil one that government actually had to pass a decree forbidding the holding of the family wedding ceremony before getting the papers.

But if your partner is Vietnamese, the fun has just begun. After the civil wedding will come the engagement ceremony where elders of the groom’s family will meet elders from the bride’s family in order to exchange gifts and secure the authorization from both families to have their son/daughter married. May be before the law but not yet according to the traditions of a Confucian –based society. A “good day” will then be chosen for the ceremony. It will be based on the lunar calendar and your respective astrological signs. It could be a few days after the engagement or up to a few months or even a year. Have we talked about patience yet?

The final ceremony will involve both families and a few hundred friends and colleagues.  Once a banquet has been held for all those people the, yes, you are husband and wife. The engagement and wedding ceremonies are highly colorful and full of interesting rituals. It is not the purpose of this book to delve into the complexities of these Vietnamese customs. Your future wife will guide you along this merry road.

DON’T think your foreigner status will exempt you from the government’s regulations on marriage and family law. The Vietnamese are proud of their achievements in this sector and they will resent any condescending attitudes or remarks.

DON’T try to go faster than the civil servants handling your case…yes; it can be a bit tricky if you or your spouse DON’T have all the necessary papers. But do you really want someone to put the brakes on and give you a real taste of stalled bureaucracy? A lifetime commitment is certainly worth a few weeks of patience.

DO remember that every culture has its customs which most of the time can look quite bemusing to an outsider.  Just relax and enjoy the ride.
DO believe your future wife when she presents you with delays or additional difficulties. Again, most people will really do their best to welcome you into their family.

Tips for women

Safety and curiosity

DON’T wear your nicest gold jewellery at night;
DO keep your handbag tucked tightly under your arm, especially while riding in cyclos. There are a few grab-and-ride motorcyclists and they are fast.
For women travelling alone, the biggest problem will probably be curiosity, which comes with an avalanche of questions: “So where is your husband?”, “Where are your children?”, “But why aren’t you married? How old are you then”, etc. The same applies to any single (or divorced) woman over the age of twenty-three and a half. Living alone in Vietnam is not easily understood as a matter of personal choice and will immediately foster bafflement and suspicion… and a barrage of questions!

Tight and see-through, but don’t bare too much

With regards to what is considered the “appropriate” way of dressing in Vietnam, it is worth taking a closer look at the traditional costume, the ao dai. Although nowadays it’s only worn by students at certain schools and during important occasions or at smarter evening parties, it gives a good indication of what is generally “done” and “not done” in terms of dress. The first thing you’ll notice is that the top is worn very tight and that it shows off the figure very well. Indeed, in contrast with many other countries where a woman’s body must be hidden by reams of material or flowing garments that suggest nothing at all, close fitting clothes are not a problem here.

Moreover, especially when white, an ao dai gives a very good view of a young woman’s underwear. It would seem that transparency does not necessarily go hand-in-hand with indecency! However, with its long-sleeved top and trousers right down to the feet, this traditional costume covers a lot of traditionally shielded flesh.
In short, clothes can be as tight and diaphanous as they come… You can never wear too much, but don’t bare too much! So, DON’T hesitate to wear body-hugging little tops, tight trousers or skirts.. if you feel so inclined.

DO risk a little lace and some see-through stuff sometimes: don’t be straight-lace about it! The Vietnamese are not.

DO avoid plunging necklines, bare shoulders, short skirts, shorts… Very little naked flesh is shown in this country. Even though this practice is very rapidly becoming more flexible, especially in the larger towns where young Vietnamese women are adopting more and more international fashions, it is definitely advisable to conform to tradition if you travel in rural areas, visit pagodas and temples and if you are working in Vietnam.

DO show respect for local ways of thinking by adjusting the way you dress. Appearances are very important.

DO be advised that even though Vietnam is not a country where you risk being attacked for your immodesty, receiving reprimands or enduring direct comment, people will definitely look askance all the same, and there will be no shortage of remarks being made behind your back… especially because people will often assume that you don’t speak the language.

Code of conduct

DON’T touch Vietnamese men in public unless you are absolutely sure it will not embarrass them and their entourage.
Aside from some very rare exceptions, Vietnamese women don’t drink and don’t smoke. But, as a foreigner, smoking shouldn’t damage your image too much. The same goes for alcohol. In fact, most Vietnamese will encourage you to drink as much as them. “Down in one” (tram phan tram) is a well entrenched custom.

Falling in love

Love can always strike on the path to the paddy fields, and there are numerous cases of happy endings sealed by marriage vows.
Mixed marriages involving foreign rather than Vietnamese women usually provoke less disapproval and salacious comments from other Vietnamese. But, DON’T underestimate the consequences! Vietnam is a very traditional society with regard to the role of women.

While living in Vietnam, a foreign woman will not enjoy the liberties that generally come with the status of being head of a family. DON’T forget that you’re marrying your mother-in-law, too! You should be awear that, traditionally, young married couples go to live with the groom’s parents, where the young bride becomes a sort of slave to her mother-in-law for a while. Even though your status as a foreign woman can cut you significantly more slack, you will almost certainly suffer strong pressure – and intrusions – from your family-in-law if you don’t want to have children, or if you don’t become pregnant within the five weeks after your honeymoon.

DO be prepared to receive many, many pieces of advice on how to bring up the children you will have had.

DON’T ever forget this, though: love may conquer all!


8. Shopping tips

Markets and minimart

Arm yourself with plenty of time and patience and get out there to find the amazing variety of great deals Vietnam offers.
DON’T miss the markets. Notable markets include floating ones in the Mekong Delta, Cho Lon market in Ho Chi Minh City that bears the same name, the large fruit and flower market in Dalat, big marketing Hanoi, colorful Sa Pa market and other ethnic minority markets in the mountainous north of the country.
DO go early when shopping at local markets. Goods are brought fresh every day from the country and without refrigeration they will suffer from the heat as the day drags on.
Shopping in many parts of Ho Chi Minh City is now little different from shopping in Bangkok or other Asian metropolis. Commercial complexes and supermarkets are also sprouting up in Hanoi and other sizeable towns. Else where things change more slowly.
Before full-blown supermarkets arrived in Vietnam, there were only minimarts. Plenty of these little international stores still exist, stocking all kinds of surprising, exotic and expensive goods, catering to the hankering of various expat groups.
DO check the expiry dates carefully on any imported produce you buy: many of the more obscure items in these shops have been gathering dust for years.

Bargain, bargain, bargain

The idea of a fixed pricing system is still quite novel in most commercial contexts, which means that a little good natured haggling is an important habit to develop. Anywhere outside supermarkets, restaurants… bargaining is the most essential.
The price of fresh food can fluctuate a lot, depending on the quality, season, availability, origin and types of goods. Sometimes, paying the lowest price is not the best bargaining.
DO be warned that, as you are easily spotted from a distance as a foreigner, you will be asked to pay more than locals. Sometimes just a little more but often outrageous more, even if this is not always immediately obvious to you, especially when relatively small sums are involved. It might seem like a snip, but you may be paying ten times the going rate.
If you feel mean haggling over such small sums or are tempted just to pay up for a quite life, DON’T forget to think of other people who will pass this way after you. You should not be too afraid off offending local sensibilities: if you pay vastly over-inflated prices without a murmur, you will simply be seen as the sucker you are letting yourself be taken for!

Faked goods

Much of the Southeast Asia is not notorious as an earthly paradise for counterfeiters and Vietnam is no exception. Everything has been faked in Vietnam-from the orchids to orgasms, via the Mona Lisa, motorbike…

DO consider your motives carefully if you purchase counterfeit goods: If you buy a Rolex for $ 20, you know that there are no chance of being a real one, except for its superficial appearance.
If this is all you want, DON’T complain if you get searched at customs on your return home, have the fake Rolex confiscated and are made to pay a fine equivalent to the cost of a genuine one.
Very good copies can be found in Vietnam, particularly items such as clothes, sports equipment and luggage. The Vietnamese are redoubtable and wily business operators, and both foreign and domestic companies often find it impossible to prevent know-how from leaking out. Even the products made from materials imported exclusively find their way onto the local market as a budget prices.

DO let the buyer beware however, it is impossible to find excellent deals, but only if you know what you are doing. You could end up with something that is standard fake-except for the label, which is entirely genuine –although that, too, was made in Vietnam!
To some extent, you can argue that fake goods provide a measure of “justice” for developing countries like Vietnam where real luxury goods are produced with relatively cheap labor to be sold subsequently too affluent and develop closer trading ties with the richer, industrialized countries, pressure will be bought to bear to ensure that such fakes disappear from the market.

What you pay for is what you get
DO be advised: for now, there is no trading standards authority in Vietnam, so check the quality of what you are buying very carefully, especially if there are safety concerns involved.
DON’T expect to get your money back if you change your mind after making purchase or even if you realize belatedly that the goods you have been sold are not advertised… Check everything before handing over your money. If it runs on electricity, get the assistant to plug it in and rest it. Keep an eye on while it’s being packed or wrapped.

The dual pricing system

Trains, which only a few years ago were as expensive for foreigners as flying, should now be the same price for all passengers. Inevitably, to meet the ensuing shortfall in revenue, the very modest prices charged previously to Vietnam have risen steeply since everybody else began paying them, too. Air travel still costs more for foreigners but the gap between foreigners and Vietnamese prices is narrowing.
A thornier problem for foreigners who elect to settle down and rent somewhere to live in Vietnam is that of utilities, namely electricity and water.  There is no longer any need to pay these extortionate prices; landlords no longer have to obtain an expensive permit previously necessary to have foreigners inhabit their property. You can pay the local price for electricity and water, as long as the bills are in the Vietnamese house owner’s name. However many landlords see no reason why they should cease to profit from these lucrative extras.
DO negotiate firmly if you what to rent a places: as a foreigner, you are a good prospect, since you will almost certainly pay more than a local, you will not start worshipping your ancestors in the house and refuse to ever move out  and you may even attract other monied foreigners to the neighbor hood. However, you should also be aware that there is no legal protection for people renting accommodation: if you have problem, you must solve it with your landlord.


9. Tips for Eating and Sleeping

Checking in and checking out

Vietnam now has a wide range of hotels from the vary basic to five-star luxury. A hotel with a permit to accommodate foreign visitors called a khách sạn- a simpler and cheaper hotel aimed at local custom is called nhà nghỉ. Foreigners can usually get a room in nhà nghỉ now but while some are fine, others are real flophouse. With all the ageing state hotels now competing with international chains and private “mini hotels”, there is no shortage of rooms so DO shop around. Looking at room before agree if to take it, checking the air condition or fan, verify the level of noise from the street and from the karaoke bar in the next room. Ask to see a cheaper /quieter room with a softer mattress and a bath, suggest they throw in breakfast or give reduction if you are staying several nights…If no agreement can be reached, and head for the next hotel down the street. Either you will be called back or you can get the same deal or better next door.
You will be asked to hand over your passport at the hotel reception. Your identity will be carefully recorded and in some more far-flung or sensitive areas, your pas port will even be taken on a visit to the local police station during the evening. Unfortunately, the same diligence is often sadly lacking the following morning so DON’T forget to pick up your passport when you check out! Many travelers have had to waste a day to recover his papers. One way to avoid this infuriating situation is to carry photocopies of your passport.  Some hotels profess not to accept them, so just say that you have left your passport behind to obtain a visa, to rent a motorbike, or similar: it might be even true.
It used to be almost impossible to stay at someone’s house in Vietnam. This has been relaxed of late, but the owner should technically register your presence with the local police. Most of the time you will not even be aware of the paperwork involved. If you seek shelter in a remote or rural area, you will usually receive unhesitating and unstinting hospitality. In the morning, despite your hangover, DO give a little money or some food: it makes for a seemly token of gratitude and you know that it’s going to people who need and deserve it.

Dining out

Some behavior in restaurant can be a little disconcerting. As soon as you sit down, you may be assailed by young ladies dressed in the livery of competing makes of beer. Their aim, surprisingly enough, is to get you to drink the beer they are promoting.
DON’T let yourself be pushed or rushed into anything: ask for the menu and take your time. After the menu arrives, the waiter who brought it will probably stand close by, expectantly awaiting your order or even reading out his recommendations over your shoulder.
DON’T be irritated by this, it is simply a manifestation of polite attentiveness.
DO Notice that dishes are usually meant to be shared: everybody picks things up from the middle of the table and puts it into his bowl.
DON’T protest if someone suddenly plops something down in your bowl: this is not a mistake or a gag, it is a highly courteous gesture, offering you the tenderest duck’s foot or the crispiest pig’s fallopian tube.
If you are eating out with Vietnamese friends or colleagues, especially if you are male, you wil probably be expected to do a little drinking.
DO try to participate good naturedly, to the level of your abilities.
Although well aware that Vietnam is not a lingering culture, a local custom that both the authors of this book find particularly irritating is the snatching away of plates as, or even before, the last mouthful of food is removed from them. Again, this is probably only proof of the service and efficiency, but if it is not firmly curbed from the start, your dining experience may not be quite as restful a one as you would hope.

Who picks up the bill?

If you are invited to the restaurant, you are not expected to pay anything and may insult your host if you try and insist. Usually, one person pays for everyone.
DON’T forget, though, that if you suggest going to eat somewhere, you will be expected to pay for the whole group.
Similarly, if it is your birthday, you have had a baby or moved into a new house, it is you who invites everyone else out for a meal.
DO check the bill before paying it. This is quite normal practice, even if you again the waiter who brings it breathing down your neck. Extra dishes sometimes find their way onto the bill or may be something you ordered never actually arrived at the table.
DON’T leave a tip of 15 percent or even 10 percent: in theory, there is no tipping at all in Vietnam, but in more up market restaurants, a small tip can be left in appreciation of good service.

For more adventurous stomachs

DON’T hesitate to try some of these:

  • Dog meat. Give it go: it is not so bad, prepared in varied styles and washed down with a pleasant, sweet, milky colored rice wine called rượu chat.
  • Duck’s blood soup. Served congealed with pepper, peanuts and herbs on top.
  • Semi-incubated duck’s eggs. They make an unusual but nutritious breakfast, served with slivers of gingers. Watch out for bits of break or feather.
  • Aromatic juice squeezed from cockroach-like insects called belostoma used to flavor some dishes such as pancakes stuffed with mushroom and meat.
  • Beating snake’s heart in rice wine. Not for lapsed vegetarians, this one.
  • Mắm tôm the highly aromatic shrimp paste with pig uterus or other meats.
  • Roasted chicken feet after a night out.

Endangered species

DON’T eat endangered species or their derivatives knowingly, if you can help it. In any case, most of them look much nicer than they taste. Things to avoid include:

  • Bear meat and bear bile
  • Sea horse
  • Turtle
  • Shark fins and shark soup
  • Exotic meats such as tiger, pangolin…
  • Wild snakes outside recognized, wild dog…

Ten tips to Eat on the Street

DO sit down to eat at busy food stalls, not deserted one: the food will probably be better there and the atmosphere certainly will be!
DO go during local meal times (around 11h30 – 13h00 for lunch, no later than 20h00 for dinner):there are not many refrigerators on the street and Vietnam is a tropical country, so if you prefer fresh food, eat early!
DON’T wait to be served: looking at what others are eating and point out something that looks tasty or have a peek in to the cooking pots and choose from there.
DO learn the Vietnamese words for No monosodium glutamate, just say “Không mỳ chính” with a smile when you order, and I fit is already added, the chef may leave out…
DON’T forget to give your bowl and chopsticks a good wipe with the paper napkins provided, like everyone else around you: a Vietnamese doctor friend declares it probable affords little or no protection from possible contamination but it is essential for the street credibility.
DON’T panic about hygiene – if you choose sensibly, your meal will not only be very cheap but also very delicious. Safest of all are the vast array of filling soups and rice gruels. Deep-fried or boiled meat and vegetables are also a good bet.
DO use your judgment: for example, ice is usually made from the purified water but if you are outside the bigger towns or it’s the rainy season, better not risk it. If you have a delicate stomach, avoid herbs and raw vegetable and eat only fruit that has been peeled. In fact, this latest point applies anywhere if you are worried about consuming pesticide, as they are showered over fruit in terrifying and uncontrolled quantities in Vietnam.
DO drink bia hoi. It is a safe, local choice and will help ease down almost anything.
DON’T stare at the pavement under your table, it might spoil your appetite, as this is the natural repository for any garbage or inedible bits left by previous customers.
DO go back if you like it. It cam only get better as the next time you will be greeted with smiles, friendlier service and choicer morsels!


10. Trekking tips

Off the beaten track

Most of the best places to go hiking are in the mountainous north of the country, but there are also interesting places to trekking the Central highland s and it’s even possible down in the Mekong Delta. Trekking is also possible in some national parks such as Cuc Phuong and Cat Ba.
Many visitors to Vietnam wishing to stretch their legs flock to SaPa, a charming little town near the Chinese border. Sa Pa is still a good base for trekking in the region which is home to a rich array of ethnic minorities.
Above Sa Pa, often shrouded in cloud, towers the Phan Xi Pang, almost 3,200 metres above sea level and the highest point in all of what was once called Indochina. Climbing this is probably the ultimate sporty trekking option in Vietnam, but not necessary the most interesting because above the foothills it is just rather bleak jungle.  A strenuous climb, it will take you from two to four days, depending on the weather conditions and on your physical condition. If you make it to the summit and are lucky that the cloud cover lifts for long enough, you may get a stunning view, allegedly stretching right down to the South China Sea.
DON’T plan to climb the Fansipan from May to August inclusive, unless you like leeches and landslides.
DO take warm, light clothing with you: this is the only place in Vietnam where it very occasionally snows.
DON’T go it alone: this is rough and wild terrain, with no inhabitants and no back-up. A British teenager died from a fall on the mountain not long ago.
DO take a guide with you, preferably from the Black Hmong ethnic minority. They are one of the local indigenous peoples here who know this terrain better than anybody.
Infact, a guide is often a good idea wherever you trek, if his language skills are up to it and he can also arrange for you to sleep overnight in villages. This is a great bonus and you get more trekking time the next day.
DO check carefully what’s on offer with an organized trek: too many guides will just take you on a gentle stroll to a nearby hamlet where 20 other foreigners a re already pestering people their cameras. It is so easy to get off the beaten track in Vietnam’s hill country that it would be a shame to miss out on this unique and magic experience.
If you prefer to trek unaided and are fit and well equipped, get advice from a hotel, tell them when you plan to get back and go for it! Rural folk in Vietnam are ussually gentle and incredibly hospitable.
DO pack good walking shoes if you plan to trek. DON’T count on buying something when you get there, especially if you have big, western feet. Something light but sturdy with a good tread is best, as you will often be hiking down wet, muddy tracks or crossing paddy fields and streams.

Sensitive areas

Some sensitive areas in Vietnam, like military installations, prisons or nuclear research plants are no different from restricted areas in any other country: if you try to enter or are found loitering, you will be stopped and questioned.
However, there are also areas that are sensitive because of political or ethnic dissent. The most notorious of thee\se are in the Central highlands, particularly near the borders with Cambodia and Laos.  It is theoretical possible to go to many such places by requesting official permission. Yet, our advice is, DON’T bother: it will be a lot of hassle and they’ll probably say no. Just go: if you get stopped, it is not the end of the world. As a rule, you will find that the official line on things becomes progressive less strict, the further you get from the centers of power…


11. Swimming tips

Beaches
The topography of Vietnam means that it possesses an impressive coastline with about 125 beaches of varying sizes and in varying stages of development. In fact, many beaches are still very unspoiled or even completely wild, apart from local fishing activities. Urban Vietnamese are just beginning to adopt the beaches holiday culture, but they mostly find time to go only in the blindingly hot summer months or on holiday weekends. If you also avoid the handful of seaside resorts universally popular with this most gregarious of nations, you may have the beach practically to yourself.
If it is the local crows you are looking for, then beaches as densely populated as the city centres at these times include:

  • Nearer Hanoi: Do Son South of Ha Long Bay, Sam Son near Thanh Hoa and Cua Lo outside Vinh.
  • Nearer Saigon: Vung Tau
  • Between the two: Nha Trang and beaches near Da Nang.

During cooler seasons, even these places are quite.
Beach destinations more adapted to foreign taste include:
Nearer Hanoi: Nothing specific but any pristine stretch of sand spotted while heading south along the coast, particular just down the road the hotspot mentioned above.
Nearer Saigon: Great beaches at Phan Thiet and Mui Ne, which thatched bungalows for rent right on the shore and luxury hotels nearby.
Between the two: Nha Trang deserves an honorable mention here, too, because despite rampant development, it has the best climate in Vietnam, a beautiful fringed with coconut palms, a charming bay dotted with island and several decent dive shops operating in town. No talk of beaches in Vietnam would be complete without mentioning China Beach, 15km from Danang. A beautiful spot, a surfer’s paradise!
DON’T go naked/topless on the beaches or in the water: culturally, this is a big no-no and would be asking for trouble.
DO protect yourself from the sun, even on apparently cloudy or hazy days: stories of foreigners with severe sunburn are too numerous to recount here.
DON’T camp on the beach: you might see local students doing it during summer holidays but foreigners are required to stay in hotels where they can be duly registered and accounted for.

Lakes and rivers
There are plenty of great places to swim inland, although many rivers are quite polluted by the time they’ve reached a decent size. Swimming in mountain streams can be very pleasant when the weather is warm. There are no dangerous parasites in still water and lakes and reservoirs abound.

Midnight dips
Midnight dips are fine, but remember that there‘s safety in numbers. Violent crime is still very rare in Vietnam, but DON’T tempt fate by leaving your stuff unattended on the beach!


12. At a Friend's house

To be polite
DON’T drop by on a casual visit to friends in Vietnam without phoning or arranging it before hand: you will embarrass them if their house is untidy or they are busy or if they simply DON’T have any food or drink to offer you.
DON’T be surprised if your friends have rather humble living quarters: even high-level people often live in the modest circumstances.
DO greet older people present first. And do not forget to say goodbye to them before you leave.

What to bring?
When you are invited by Vietnamese friends, you should bring with you some kind of gift. Popular favorites include a bag of fruit or a bunch of flowers. Yet, as a rich foreign friend you should splash out on a bottle of wine of liquor, chocolate…
Before you make a purchase, DO check where the item comes from: the approval rating for locally made or Chinese items will be low. But DON’T expect to be thanked for your present or even to see it opened in front of you. It can be quite galling if you were hoping to share that nice bottle of champagne you brought along, it is quite usual.

What to leave outside?
Your shoes: as in many Asian countries, people traditional sit, rest and eat on the floor. So the solution is to exchange your own foot ware for some plastic sandals, flip-flops or slippers, offered by your host. This custom is really strict in certain countries like Thailand. If you fall over a forest of footwear as you fight your way through your friends’ door, DON’T believe him or her if he or she says politely that you can keep your clogs on: whip them off without more ado.
On the other hand, you can bring in just about anything else you want to –even your motorbike, if you have one and your friend does not have a courtyard or other secure packing place to leave it outside.
Cars owners sometimes even drive them into the ground floors of their house for safekeeping.

When to say goodbye

You may still be having a good time when midnight strikes but DON’T linger for too long: as a rule, such social occasions do not go on as long as they would do in your country. Leisure time is limited and people get up incredibly early in the morning.
Do be on the lookout for hints that the party’s over…even if it’d only nine in the evening. Everyone else has left? Your host’s spouse ha already retired to bed. After a while, you might even be offered a not so subtle but still vietnamesely polite hint… “You go home now?”

When should you invite?
Vietnamese are expeted to invite their family, friends or colleagues on a number of accasion, including:

  • On their own birthday
  • After giving birth to a child
  • When they move to a new house or apartment
  • Upon starting a new job or getting a promotion.
  • When they buy a big item like a new motorbike.

DO as they do. When it’s your turn to invite, remember it’s who pays for everybody!


13. At Pagodas & Temples

No need to be shy
After reading guide books on other Asian countries like Thailand or China, travelers enter Vietnamese temples with apprehension. What should we door not do? What are these customs about not touching the head of children and not pointing the feet?
Well. Relax. You will find Vietnamese much more pragmatic and lenient in their daily life…including their conduct at temples and pagodas.
But first, a few obvious no-nos.
DON’T go temples dressed as if you just walk off the beach. There is no special dress code other then to avoid obviously disrespectful attire” swimsuits, skimpy or torn T-shirts, head-turning shorts or low-cut blouses.
DON’T keep your shoes on if every one else is taking them off. Rules vary from one temple to the next, just check for the presence of shoes and sandals on the front porch.
DON’T should or otherwise disturb the tranquility of the premise.
In traditional Buddhist temples, found mostly in Central and Souhth Vietnam, there are few additional rules.
DON’T touch minks if you are women.
DON’T pat the children’s heads
As well as point with your feet.
Apart from the ebove, you can just about be yourself…as long as you are a rather respectful self!
But the best rule of all remains: DO observe the locals to know what’s OK and what’s not.

Taking pictures
Inmost temple and pagodas you will be allowed to take pictures. Yet, in some Buddhist temples, taking pictures of certain Buddha statues is not allowed.
Asking before clicking is always respectful. No need to know the local language…simply show your camera and the object you would like to photograph.

Doing it the Vietnamese way
Trips to the countryside are always accompanied by a short visit to nearby temples.
Buy joss sticks, paper money or flowers at the entrance of the premises. Plant the lighted joss sticks in the vases placed for that purposes. Vietnamese like to disperse the sticks into as many vases as available…all deities should be thus honored. In front of any statue, preferably one of which you might know the background, hold your hands together at chest level; and pray. Prayers are in the form of polite requests: for heath, success, money or whatever you need in your life at the present moment. Bow your head slightly and make space for the next visitor.


14. Yes or No?

We did mention that Vietnamese liked to say “yes” way more than “no”. There is one word for no and that’s “không” but for yes… the nuances are nearly infinite.
There are the “dạ” and “ừ” used mostly at the end of the other interlocutors sentences and having more than meaning of “I’ve heard you” or “keep going” than a solid “yes”. “vâng” is a more general-but sometimes very vague-yes; literally, it means “you are right”.
Most of the times, the Vietnamese will use the verb contained in the question to the express a “yes-approval”. Something like:
Q. Did you see the football match yesterday?
A. I saw

Q. Do you have a motorbike?
A. I have
Watch out for negative questions! Vietnamese say yes to approve the negation.

Q. This isn’t your house, is it?
A. Yes

Double negative questions? Forget those, you’d be lucky if any Vietnamese would understand such a convoluted sentence and even luckier to guess correctly what a yes would mean.
Unfortunately, knowing how to say yes is the easy part. Understanding what a Vietnamese really means when he answers yes takes a few years of practice and experience.

Beware of the Vietnamese yes

  • Ask all questions several times over and in different ways.
  • Never give the answer in a question. Ask open questions, not leading questions.
  • DON’T ask negative questions.
  • Avoid “either or” questions.

Ten tips to learning the lingo

  • You have to learn to hear your own voice! Tape your self…listen-not to the words-but to your intonations and inflexions. Ask someone who has good imitation skills or who knows a bit of Vietnamese to help you decode your own voice.
  • DON’T keep the basics: pronouicitaion. Vietnamese phonemes are quite different and learning the alphabet is a worthwhile endeavour.
  • Make your own list of phenomenon equivalents.
  • Revisit the basics often. Pronunciation and tones are two different but equally difficult challenges of the language.
  • At first, exaggerate the tones and even use hands to mine them
  • Speak loudly and listen to yourself. After having said a sentence, try and rehera to see where you have placed the tones and inflexions.
  • Learning a few introductory sentences and use them over and over again, slowly building from thee to enlarge your repertoire.
  • When a Vietnamese is correcting you on a word, make sure you know if he is correcting your pronunciation or tone. Again, use your hands for tones.
  • Look at the shop signs and advertisements. The Vietnamese phonetic alphabet makes it easy to practice saying the words even if you DON’T understand their meaning. These signs are like an open air dictionary, albeit with limited vocabulary.
  • There are no short cuts. If you really want tolerant, you will have to make e the effort. Get books, but tapes and practice.